Luang Prabang

The camera stands on the paved terrace at the bottom of the stair, which is the only place to take in how the whole front of this temple is arranged. Two nagas - serpents, gilded, with green and red glass scales - run the full length of the balustrades on either side, heads reared at the bottom about level with the tripod, bodies climbing the steps to the porch. The porch itself is gold over practically every surface, carved and inlaid, under a roof that curves rather than steps. A small notice by the door asks you in Lao and English to take your shoes off. Turn away from the building and the compound opens out flat: sugar palms, a low white wall, a road, and hills a long way back in the haze. The stone underfoot is pale and warm and the whole thing is very quiet.

With its history permeated by conquests, Luang Prabang's peaceful feel betrays the city's past strife. At the convergence of two rivers, the Nam Khan and the Mekong, Luang Prabang is a charming and beautiful city set against a backdrop of green jungle and rugged mountain peaks. The earliest kingdoms around what is now Luang Prabang date to the seventh century, and the city played an important role in the political history of Laos as the regional capital until the official directive was moved to Vientiane in 1545.

Despite the change, the city still remained a focus of many ruling parties in the surrounding area, and in 1887, Luang Prabang was attacked and destroyed by Chinese warlords, after which the French army offered its protection. Over time, the stucco and brick buildings that lend the city its colonial style were built, including the Royal Palace (pictured above). Also known as Haw Kham, the palace was built in 1904, with a mix of French Beaux Arts and traditional Lao motifs. Many French colonials migrated to the small city, even in the waning years of France's control over Laos, which ended in 1954. The last of the royal family in Luang Prabang was exiled in 1975, and the victorious Communist forces established the Lao Democratic People's Republic and essentially closed off the country to outsiders.

Laos re-opened to tourism after the fall of the Soviet Union, in 1989, a shadow of its past self; the economy sagged and most of the aristocracy, intellectuals, and businesspeople had left the country. However, the legalization of private businesses sparked an economic resurgence—stores long since closed were reopening, new guesthouses and hotels emerged from rundown local houses and villas, lively art galleries began sprouting up, and handicrafts and restaurants took over sleepy street corners. Luang Prabang's international presence was greatly elevated in 1995, after becoming a UNESCO World Heritage site. The legends surrounding Luang Prabang include one where Buddha stopped to rest in the city, predicting that one day it would be an influential and prosperous capital city. Today the city is home to scores of practicing Buddhist monks, who have become the source of much attention as they take alms throughout the city early each morning as the sun rises. The surrounding mountains and rivers are also the base for tourists seeking outdoor adventure, as they're a great start for exploring the surrounding caves and mountains.

These days, Luang Prabang is a quiet but beautiful city, and it's considered the showpiece tourist destination in Laos. Filled with splendid golden wats (temples), crumbling provincial architecture, local produce markets, and plenty of activity along the river, Luang Prabang lures travelers from around the region. It's reachable by bus from Vientiane, and most visitors who come begin with a stroll along the riverside and through the city's markets. Watching the monk's procession at dawn offers a glimpse into the rich culture of the area, and there are several other local sights you should not miss.